I lunch on cold cucumber soup and perch from Lake Zurich and sip light, fruity local white wine in a garden under a trellis at Neumarkt, a popular haunt. From there, I amble down the hill to the ninth century Fraumunster church. Once inside, I admire five high, narrow, gorgeous stained glass windows done in 1970 by the painter, who stayed at another Zurich classic, the grand circa 1844 Hotel Baur au Lac, while he did the church windows.
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